The Best of the Best

Twelve days since my last blog post... not because I have little to write on at all. It has been jammed packed with a lot of my favorite days of the trip. 

To begin with, the Vatican took my breath away all day. In a strictly art history sense, the art there is incredible. But, my favorite was the emotional relationships between the people in the artwork. Michelango's relationship between God and man in the Sistene Chapel and in the Pieta held true to what I know and experience. Raphael's Transfiguration of Christ picks you up and puts you into his scene of Jesus' power and our weakness. Its replica is one the many mosaics in the massive St. Peter's Cathedral. Another highlight of the day was eating wine and cheese and watching the bachelor with Claire and Coco. We then ate dinner in the Piazza Novella with Italian guitar players and Bernini's fountain. We also saw Bernini's St. Teressa, Apollo and Daphne, and the Rape of Proserpina. One girl in our group started crying when she saw Apollo and Daphne; it's incredible. We also chased Caravaggio around Rome. He is somewhat of the bad boy of art and his paintings show it. He has more passion and understanding of people and the Bible than any other artist I've seen.

The next morning, after much confusion of the meeting place and location of the car rental place, I met my parents in Rome and we were on the road. I got to show them my favorite Duomo so far, in Orvietto, then went to one of my favorite places I have ever stayed, a remodeled modern villa outside Orvietto. We had a three hour dinner on the terrace with a beautiful view and wonderful food. The next day we went back to Orvietto to my favorite pottery place, where Mom and Dad bought a backsplash. That night we met our spirited villa owner and had a wonderful dinner in a small town (I am in love with gnocchi). The next day, we went to a castle that's the Italian equivalent of Monticello. The second president of united Italy lived there and there are rooms dedicated to his science and armory. I stayed there and drew the castle and we reunited for a dinner in Siena. It was lovely at night. Most of the tourists left and we sat in the Piazza del Campo with gelato and talked and watched a parade practice for the Palio. 


The next day was my favorite. We drove around during the morning and ended up in the Brunello wine country and stopped in a town for lunch. We asked for directions from a lady, Giudy Parisi and she walked with us to her favorite restaurant. We asked her for a recommendation of a vineyard to see, and she told us that her family owned a small vineyard right outside the city and that she would take us over the right after lunch. It was just about the most Italian expierience I will ever be a part of. Her dad. Annibale Parisi welcomed us outside their house, “nostra vita,” which means “our life” and showed us his gardens of cherries, herbs, and of course grapes. They showed us their wine vats and explained everything about the art of making the wine. Italians prefer to know the land and work with it. They keep the best wine in seasoned barrels for three years before moving into metal vats for two years. My favorite part was seeing Annibale’s workshop. He makes  increcible furniture, with the natural shape of the tree. He bought the liscense to a book of local history and reprinted and bound copies of it. He has and seventy book collection of samples of seventy tuscan trees. His paintings are all over his workshop and he hand paints each label of his Brunello wine. They were hospitable in the most relaxed way and I enjoyed just being around them and seeing their life. Dad bought wine, but Annibale gave me a bottle as a gift and Mom an apron. That night was another authentic experience with dinner made by our villa hostess with other people staying there, including people from Utah, South Africa, Florida, and California. Mom and Dad dropped me off the next day in Castiglion. This may sound cheesy, but my parents and I's experiences and conversations together those days are some of the greatest gifts of this six weeks in Italy. I will have those memories forever.


Wednesday and Thursday of this week, I got to relax and draw in Castiglion. Then, we headed off to our last day in Florence. It included Santa Croce monastery and the Uffizi, where I loved Botticelli's paintings. Like the vatican, the Uffizi is masterpiece after masterpiece and it was really amazing to see it in chronological order and get a better understanding of the timeline of Italian art.


Cinque Terre might be my favorite place on earth. I got in late from Florence and met up with the A&M group that I stayed with. I wish I could describe well enough how kind they were to me. They welcomed me in as one of their own and put me at ease. They helped me and included me the whole time. Cinque Terre is a grouping of five small towns on the western coast of Italy, near Pisa. It has rock beaches with the most blue water I have ever seen and stucco, painted houses. My favorite part of the weekend was the hike from Vernazza to Monterosso. It took us about 2 hours but it was all gorgeous and fun. We then had lunch and rented kayaks and paddled over to a waterfall that you can only get to by boat. It has moss at its base that feels like green shaggy carpet. The weather was perfect so we sat in the sun there before we went back to the beach and sat in the sun some more. We went to a Jazz festival that night (last night) and walked around the La Spezia, where we stayed. Today we came back tired and a little sunburned. These twelve days have been days filled with relationships and getting to be with people, which has been my greatest joy so far.

Rome at Last

Rome is fantastic. At first glance, it's swarming with tourists and traffic, but underneath that, it has the character of thirty centuries. I gave my on-site presentation yesterday at the Temple of Saturn in the Forum. We also went to the Colosseum, arches, and the Pantheon. I have loved trying to picture the way Rome was before it was pillaged and repurposed. We are staying at a hotel near the Pantheon, so we're right in the middle of it all. Last night, most of us went out to dinner for Sarah H's birthday. It was a blast.
Today, we went to tons of incredible churches then had the second part of the day free. During the free part, I went with some girls to the Capitoline Museum, the first public museum. My favorite thing there was the original manuscript of Martin Luther's excommunication. I also got to see the original statue of Marcus Aurelius, the "she wolf" statue, and some Caravaggio paintings. Again, all the ages of art coming together in one space.

One of the oddest parts of being here is looking at all the depictions of God and not knowing them at all. Some artists painted icons and others painted Christ in a believable way, but none are my Jesus. Seeing them is very different than looking at a picture of my best friend. Although man can paint an imagine, we cannot do Him justice. My eyes are not satisfied. I long even more for the day when I see His real face in glory, without the taint of human perception. In heaven, my belief and sight will become one. This side of eternity, I will never be able to aptly depict what I love the most.

Week of New Things

Confession: I like lists more than paragraphs. Plus, to be honest writing a blog with a chronological listing of every place I went, restaurant I ate at, and thing I bought is a bit daunting. So for the past week, here are the “musts” for any Italian travelling list

1. Eat foccacia bread. It’s similar to a thick crust of pizza, except it has butter and garlic on top. It is to die for. Ann brought some foccacia from the shop about a minute away to class for us to try and now I’m hooked.
2. Take a day away from the group and spend time walking around and only interacting with Italians. That has been one of my favorite parts about drawing in the city. Most of Learn Tuscany works on their art in the studio, so when I go on my excursions, I get to see Italy in the most Italian way I can.
3. Go to Lucca and ride bikes around the wall. It’s one of the only Etruscan cities that kept the entirety of their wall. On my time off last weekend, I spent two days in Lucca with Claire, Tara, and Coco. It is quiet because most people bike in the city and it’s extremely nice. We had an incredible dinner at Antica Osteria. My favorite thing we ordered was a prosciutto plate with fried dough.
4. Climb the Duomo in Florence. It is definitely worth it. I climbed it with some people from UT on our break yesterday. I am definitely sore today. First, getting to climb in between Brunelleschi’s design for the inner and outer layers was a really cool experience. Then we got to see the Dome frescos super close. Then, of course, the view was incredible.
5. Go to Orvietto. It is my favorite Duomo, with incredible frescos inside of the last judgment by Signorelli. I loved buying a pottery pitcher at L’Arpia from the sweetest couple. The husband makes the pottery and the wife paints it. They stopped working and talked to us for about 30 minutes. Orvietto is also famous for their wine and there are many stores on the main street that have wine tastings.
6. Go to a festival. The end of the Medieval Festival in Castiglion was this week. They had dancers, a sword eater, fire throwers, and ended with the most spectacular fireworks I have ever seen. The Italians get super into their celebrations.
7. Learn some Italian. Ok, admittedly I know very little but I have definitely seen that the more I say when I come into a store, the more they seem ok with helping me out with what I don’t know. Plus, I’ve gotten somewhat friendly with my regular spots.
8. Try different coffees and pizza. My favorite coffee at the moment is cafe shakerata where they shake up coffee, cream, and ice all together until the ice melts. As for pizza, I just had my first piece of nutella pizza and it is wonderful. It’s in the pizzeria that looks over all of Castiglion Fiorentino in what Americans call “the pirate bar.” I don’t know the real name.
9. I haven’t done this one and I’m not sure if I’ll get to this trip, but I’m dying to stay in a Convent. Yesterday, we saw Fra Angelico’s paintings in San Marco monastery in Florence, where the Medici family stayed and Savonarola lived. Ann then told us about when she stayed in a convent. On my life list.

I'm still loving it here and constantly seeing new things. It's crazy how much there is to experience. Also, I somehow cant find my last post. May have deleted it somehow? 

The Highlights

In this town, I feel the rhythm of the birds; People seem to glide. Even the noise is peaceful. My favorite part of the city is the arches. I sit there and draw or just think. It's through the arches that I get to watch the city up close, and away, away below me. I can smell the pastries from La Posta. It's the best view of the birds.

My favorite part of drawing is how it demands for me to see. My mind connects to the world. The art is my way to filter what's around me. It has a bit of both of us.

Now, as for my week, I don't want to spend too long on the details, so I will share some of the highlights.

1. Sienna is probably my favorite city. Most of the buildings are made out of gorgeous brick in different patterns with green shutters. The Duomo will take your breathe away. There are details everywhere. Even the floor amazed me.
2. I'm not the best with communicating with gypsies. They sense my weakness and attack. In Arezzo, a man asked me for a euro around 15 times. It was terrible.
3. If your waiter gives your table a desert drink in Italy, don't take it with you. Our thinking was that it was rude to leave their gift basically untouched. But, Ann (my Art History teacher) was appalled. Apparently it is "bruta figura" to leave with the bottle, which I now know they wash and reuse. Woops
4. In Italy, siesta hours last from around 1 to 3 and all the shops close down, even international chains. People here work close to 35 hour work weeks.
5. I am in the right major. We have looked at countless frescos, but I am always interested in the ancient typography underneath them. There are many different scripts, but many have high contrast and are extremely elegant (for example, in Duccio's Maesta).
6. Italian meals have the same sense of non-urgency that the rest of Italy carries. Here, it's rude for the waiter to give you the check before you ask for it. The table is yours for the night. Our dinners at Santa Chiara consist of bread, then pasta, then meat and vegetables, then sometimes dessert. We eat for an hour at least.
7. I have Kenzie to thank for this. I have been working on my Italian bucket list. It includes eating a whole pizza, renting bikes (I'm going to Lucca this weekend with friends),  climbing to the top of the Duomo in Florence, cooking, walking to the castle that we can see from Santa Chiara, and talking with an Italian for an hour.
Ok, I just saw my Italian teacher walk by and I'm about to be late for class. Ciao!

Florence

Wow! Every day is awesome here. Yesterday we went to Florence. We left at 6:15 to go to café dragon near the CF train station. We loaded up on cappuccinos, pastries, and fruit and made our train. We started at Piazzale Michelangelo, which has an incredible view of the whole city then went to our first basilica, San Miniato. Michael’s class focuses on ornamentation, so we talked about much of the geometric, stone ornamentation on the church and Ann walked around and explained the history of the building and technique of frescos. One of my favorite things about coming with the art group is that everyone enjoys observing. We stood in the side chapel for 45 minutes and looked and talked about the frescos and sculpture. No one in Learn Tuscany has any rush when it comes to art. We then took a long walk through the old city, across the Ponte Veccio, and to Orsanmichelle, a church where we couldn’t talk. So, I listened to Ann’s podcast and drew. It is dedicated to Florentine guilds and received major funding after a plague because the Florentines wanted to thank Mary for saving them. We breaked for lunch and some friends and I went to a café that had a 13-euro special for students with prosciutto, pizza, and desert. I also ordered the table a bottle of wine. It was so much fun and we spent our two hours laughing and eating. We then went to the Duomo and saw Brunelleschi’s doors (although the gates of paradise are copies). It’s so cool to me that craft never dies. He used low relief, high relief, etching, and a combination of the three in the doors to give perspective. They took him most of his life. We then talked about the exterior of the Duomo including the dome and the baptistery with Donatello’s statues, then took a shopping break. Coco and I went shopping near the train station and found the cutest store with a really sweet mom and daughter from New York. She bought a dress and I loved a purse that I might buy later. We headed back on the train totally exhausted. We had dinner at SC then rested in our rooms. Most of our group and the A&M group ended the night at a party that one of the local bars threw for us with view of most of CF and the vineyards. I got to meet some A&M people, and learned many new things about my group (tattoos, a husband, and an online relationship). I feel like we’re coming together and love talking to everyone. Today, Sunday, we have a free day. I plan to spend it reading, drawing, and relaxing outside. What a perfect combination. Sadly, I’ve had problems uploading pictures from my camera, so I’m having to share my phone ones for now.

Fun Italian fact of the day: here, the hook ‘em horns hand means “your wife is cheating on you” and is extremely offensive. Hand signs and body language go a long way here, so no hook ‘em horns from me for the next six weeks.

I read this in the train going to Florence:

Ecclesiastes 8:15 “And I commend joy, for man has nothing better under the sun but to eat and drink and be joyful, for this will go with him in his toil through the days of his life that God has given him under the sun.” I am very thankful to have this time of joy with only the task of looking at the most beautiful art, drawing in one of the most peaceful cities, and eating some of the best food.

Settled In

view from my window

I made it here and my jet lag is almost gone! We arrived in Rome yesterday (thursday) morning and took a train to Castiglion Fiorentino. I LOVE it here! It has four parts to the city and we're one of the oldest parts. Santa Chiara is a renovated convent that has mostly Texan, professor-lead programs all year round. It is extremely old with many different add-ons and four levels. I keep getting lost. I am sharing a room with three other girls and we lucked out with our own bathroom and a room that looks out over the courtyard with an incredible view. We first went to Santa Chiara orientation with the wife of the man who bought the building. Then, this morning we had Art History where we talked about what we will learn tomorrow in Florence. After lunch we went to Art and I talked to Michael about drawing people, characters, and architecture. He suggested drawing Italian sculptures that we see and exaggerating their features. I also drew for a while and got gelato with Olivia. Tonight we had Italian class. Then dinner which A&M joined our group for, so I saw Andrew Scudder (a Providence friend) and guys he came with, but also Evan Clayton (a TCA friend), who I had no idea would be there. After dinner, some of us went exploring and found a medieval fair in a castle! Then we came back for a Cinque Terre meeting. By the way, in Italian, you pronounce c-i "chi" and c-h-i "key." Tomorrow we are waking up at 5:50 am for our train to Florence. I miss Texas but I love it here! Much love

Train ride to Castiglion

Packed and Ready

Five days from take off and my bag is already packed. Excited is an understatement.


General trip information:
Program: Learn Tuscany with UT Austin Art Department
Teachers: Ann Johns teaching Art History, Michael Mogavero teaching drawing and painting
Friends: Sarah (Kappa who's the pledge class below me), Coco (apartment neighbor, friend from Parsons), Olivia (friend from my design program)
Location: Castiglion Fiorentino, close to Florence. We are staying in Santa Chiara, an old convent. 
Dates: May 23rd to July 4th
Schedule:

May 23 (W):   Students leave the U.S.

May 24 (Th):  arrive Castiglion Fiorentino (CF)

5/25 (F):          CF orientation/class

5/26 (Sa):         Florence by rail. City bus to Piazzale Michelangelo for spectacular view; walk to San Miniato (drawing time). Walking tour of the city from San Miniato to the Piazza della Signoria and Orsanmichele. Break for lunch and free time. Meet at Duomo complex at 3:00 for Duomo discussion; buy/peruse art supplies at Zecchi’s, historic art supply store. 

5/27 (Su):        free 

Week of Monday, May 28

5/28 (W):         CF Class

5/29 (T):          Arezzo via local bus; Pieve di Santa Maria, Piero della Francesca                                                frescoes at San Francesco, break for lunch. Meet at Duomo at 3:00.

5/30 (W):         CF class

5/31 (Th):        Siena by chartered bus; Palazzo Pubblico, lunch, Duomo and Duomo

                        museum; dinner in Siena

6/1 (F):            CF class

6/2 (Sa):           free

6/3 (Su):          free

Week of Monday, June 4

6/4 (M):           CF Class

6/5 (T):            Orvieto by rail; Duomo complex and Signorelli frescoes; drawing and free time in city.

6/6 (W):           CF class

6/7 (Th):          Florence trip II by rail. Andrea del Castagno frescoes at Sant’Apollonia, Brunelleschi’s Foundling Hospital and San Marco (Fra Angelico). Break for lunch. Meet at Santa Maria del Carmine for Brancacci Chapel visit at 3:30.

6/8 (F):            CF class

6/9 (Sa):           free

6/10 (Su):        free

Week of Monday, June 11

6/11 (M):         Rome

        A.M. travel from CF to Rome by rail; check into Hotel Tiziano

        Ancient Rome: Roman Forum, Colosseum, and Pantheon

6/12 (T):          Medieval Rome: walking tour in Trastevere (S.M. in Trastevere, Sta.                                               Cecilia); afternoon free

6/13 (W):         Renaissance Rome: St. Peter’s and the Vatican museums

6/14 (Th):        Baroque Rome: Caravaggio walk (Sant’Agostino, San Luigi dei Francesi,                                       Santa Maria del Popolo), Borghese Gallery, Bernini’s St. Teresa                                                      (Santa Maria in Vittoria)

6/15 (F):          Depart for long weekend!!!

6/16 (Sa):         free

6/17 (Su):        free

Week of Monday, June 18

6/18 (M):         free

6/19 (T):          return from long weekend

6/20 (W):         CF class/Rome review

6/21 (Th):        CF class

6/22 (F):          Florence trip III, by rail: Uffizi a.m.; Santa Croce and Santa Felicita in

                        the afternoon

6/23 (Sa):         free

6/24 (Su):        free

Week of Monday, June 25

6/25 (M):         CF class

6/26 (T):          Cortona by bus (walk to Le Celle)

6/27 (W):         La Pievuccia

6/28 (Th):        CF class/Group Presentations

6/29 (F):          CF class/Group Presentations

6/30 (Sa):         free

7/1 (Su):          free

Week of Monday, July 2

7/2 (M):           Final Art Exhibit

7/3 (T):            clean up/pack/check out

7/4 (W):           depart